Lith and Lomograph

LITH PRINT

To create this edit I started out by transferring it from lightroom to photoshop. Next I created a duplicate layer wand went to image-adjustments-hue/saturation. I clicked the colorize box and  moved the hue slider to 40 and saturation to 30. I then made another duplicate layer, selected filter-noise-add noise. I selected the uniform box as well as monochramatic and set the amount to 30. To make the noise less harsh I changed the layer opacity to 20%. After this I applied the Gaussian Blur filter with a radius of 1.5 to make it even softer. Lastly to create a vignette I made a new layer, went up to edit-fill. Using the elliptical marquee tool I drew an oval in the center. Next I inverted by clicking inverse under select so the dark was around the oval. Lastly I added a layer mask, set layer blending to Soft Light and went around the photo with a brush.

LOMOGRAPH

To edit this picture first I moved it from Lr to Ps. Next I made a copy of the background layer and went to filter-blur-radial blur and set the amount to 15, method to zoom, and quality to best. Next I added a layer mask and used a size 130 bush to remove the blur from the center. I next made another layer and used a black brush to create a vignette. I lowered the opacity to 50%. After this, I went to layer-new adjustment layer-channel mixer. This then allowed me to adjust the red and green output channels color. Lastly to add noise I duplicated the background layer and went to filter-noise-add noise. I set the amount to 10 and set to uniform and monochomatic. I then repeated this on the layer with radial blur.

Exposure Technical Challenge

lightmeter 0

In this one the lightmeter was right in the middle. You get pretty even lighting but you cant see very much detail and it is bright.

lightmeter -1

In this photo the lightmeter was on the -1 mark. The difference in this photo is its not so blown out and bright and you are able to see more detail. The blues and greens became more deep and stand out.

lightmeter -2

 In this photo the lightmeter was two below. The difference it you are looking into the sun but you can barely see it. You can see a lot more detail than you could in either of the top too. It made the whites less harsh and the blues and greens a lot deeper.

ISO 100

This photo was taken with an ISO of 100 and the lightmeter on 0. The sun and the sky are bright but you can clearly see detail and color.

ISO 400

This one was taken with an ISO of 400 and the lightmeter on 0. In this one it is the perfect contrast of light and dark so that you see detail and bright colors. 

ISO 1600

 In this photo the ISO was at 1600 and the light meter on 0. you dont get as bright of colors but you can still see detail. The sun looks really bright and the whites are a little to white.

Glow Lights

    To create the glow lights I started by moving the photo from Lr to Ps. After that, I created a new layer by going under the layer tab and clicking layer then new. Next I switched the pen to free form pen and began experimenting with different designs. When I decided on one to do I started by drawing the yellow circles. I drew them with the pen, then went up to layer-- layer style--outer glow-- and decided on a yellow color. After, I held down the control key and clicked on the circle. This then brought up the option to create a stroke path. I clicked on it then went back up to layer style to decide on the size, opacity, and range. I continued these same steps after I drew the different lines around the circles, creating a new layer each time I did something new. Lastly I added the swirl around her arm and moved the picture back to Lr. 

Music Project

To edit this photograph I started by making the temperature 66 and played around with the tint ending with 86. I wanted it to have a yellowy, bright, old kind of look to it. I downed the clarity to -30 and brought the exposure down to -10. These together gave the sky a purple color. I upped the brightness to 38 and added fill light of 55. I wanted you to be able to notice most of the detail in the flower so I upped the contrast to 28 and made the blacks 33. Lastly, I played with the hue colors and decided on bringing the orange to -21 and the yellow to 23. This helped give it more of a yellow happy feel. I think the message this image shows goes along with the lyrics. I decided on this photo because she is totally surrounded by the flowers which goes along with being among the wildflowers and being somewhere you can be free. I liked that the flower covers her face so she is anonymous but you can tell she is where she wants to be and has a smile on her face. I think this photo has a cheery feel but also has some mystery as you don't know where she is or why she is alone and you cant tell who she is. To me this song brings back happy memories of being with my family and being happy to just be around eachother. I wanted my photo to show how happy the little things can make you, like being somewhere you belong and where you can be yourself and be free.

Frozen Motion Practice

Shutter speed: 2000 

I noticed that with shutter speeds this high the whole picture froze easy. It was clearer than all the other ones and was easier to get a better picture.

Shutter speed: 125

When taking pictures with this shutter speed his motion was frozen but both his hand and the ball are blurry.

Shutter speed: 30

Because the shutter speed was so slow, almost the whole photo was blurry. Both his arm, ball, and part of the background was blurry.

Text Practice

To do this project I started by opening a new layer in Ps. Next I added a gradient background. I chose to do a black and silvery one under metals. After this I used the text tool and used BOOM as my otamotopia word. I used Krungtherp font and 140pt font size to write the word. I decieded to make the word a bright pink color to contrast and pop against the dark background. With Text Warp I chose squeeze and kept it on horizontal. I made it bend +60 and moved it to the center of the page. Under the fx layer panel I chose inner shadow, outer glow, bevel and emboss, stroke and patter overlay. With pattern overlay I clicked on the word to get more options. I chose the second pattern and set the blend mode to normal, the opacity to 23%, and scale at 269%. I finished by saving the document back to Lr. 

Frozen Motion

To edit this photo I upped the clarity to 50 and made it slightly darker. Other than those edits I didn't do anything else to this photo. I took this photo with a 1/100 shutter speed and the ISO at 100. I decided to leave it in color because all the colors made it stand out and the background was simple enough to not distract from the seagulls to much.

 To edit this photo I changed it to black and white in Lightroom and upped the clarity to 100. I made the blacks slightly blacker and upped the contrast to 23. I made the exposure 25 and decided to leave it alone. I used a shutter speed of 1/100 and an ISO of 100. I thought it looked best in black and white beacuse it gave it a more classic feel and made the background less distracting.

To edit this picture I made the temp a little bit yellower. I made the clarity 50 and used a 1/100 shutter speed to capture the water dripping on the flower. I chose to leave it in color because the colors gave it a happy spring feel and made the water drops pop out. 

To edit this photo besides making the brightness a little bit brighter I left it the same. I left it in color because I thought it showed the character of the city. The ISO was set at 100 and the shutter speed was 1/100. 

Text Blend

To create this image I started by editing one of my outdoor portrait photo's in Lightroom.  I upped the clarity and brightened it a little. To edit the texture photo of leaves, I made the clarity 41 and kept the rest the same. I then exported both photos to Photoshop and made sure they were the same size. After adjusting them to be the same I selected the texture photo and copied and pasted it on top of the portrait photo of my brother. Next under the layer tab at the bottom I messed around with the different blending options. I ended up choosing soft light because it made both photos equally blend. To refine the texture even more, I used the layer mask tool. I took out the texture part on his face, but kept it on his hair and clothes. I finished by saving it back in Lightroom.

Waterdrop Grid

       To create this grid I started out by editing my favorite 4 photos in Lr. I made the temp yellower on all of them to give them a kind of glow and blackened the blacks slightly. After this I cropped them all down to 4x6. Next I moved all four to Ps and made a new 11x14 document with a resolution of 300. For the guidelines I changed it to vertical: 0.5in and 11.5in and horizontal: 0.5 and 4.5in. Next I had to make all the images smaller to fit on the document. I went to image, image size, and changed them to 4x6 and 300 resolution. After doing this four times I went though and selected command A then command C, and lastly command V to copy and paste each photo to the new document. With the guidelines in place I set the different photographs up against the guidelines and made a 1in gap in between them. Lastly I saved the new document back in Lr.

Chrysanthemum

Before photoshop edits...

After photoshop edits...

To edit this photo I used a few tools in photoshop.  I started by making the blacks blacker and cropping slightly to center the flower in Lr. Next, I exported the photo to Ps and started by useing color range to select the flower and adjusting fuzziness to get the best detail. After this, I made a new layer and selected color balance. With this I played around with shadows, midtones, and highlights and changed around the colors. Eventually I got this result by making the shadows pinker and the highlights pinker as well. Next I made the image 8fit and used the tools to add effects. I used diffuse glow and kept the detail and add a cool effect to it. 

Final

  

Form: before edits...

Form: after edits

 For this photo I started out by changing it from color to black and white. Next, I cropped it to cut out a tree in the background and get a closer view. Then I cropped it to a 5x7 size which shrunk it just a little. After, I upped the clarity to 100 and the vignette to -55. I changed the contrast to 5 to conrtast more between to shadows and the ball and glove to fit as form. After these edits I wanted to take out the bushy tree behind the glove so it wasnt a distraction. I used the clone stamp to remove it and started with a 64 size brush. I gradually went down to a 43 size brush and eventually a 30 as I got closer to the glove. I kept the opacity and flow both at 100% and the brush hardness at zero. Next I continued with the same brush and took out a person fugure in the backround using pixels from the sky. After this I used the burn tool to darken the wood marks on bat. I used a small 46 size brush and changed the exposure to 20%. I set it at midtones and went over the darker spots to give it detail and make it stand out. This photo works for form becuase of the shadows the glove makes, creates a 3D look. The shadow on the ball also creates a 3D look and makes you look at the photo twice.

Space: before edits...

Space: after edits

For this photo I started out by changing it to black and white in Lightroom. After this I used the clone stamp in Photoshop to remove a twig that was taking away from the picture. I used a size 15 brush and 0 hardness. I continued with the opacity and flow at 100% and used the pixels from next to the side of the glove to remove the twig. Lastly, I used the burn tool in Photoshop to darken the letters on the glove so they were more of a focus and they stood out. I did this with a small 26 size brush with 0 hardness and the exposure to 8%. I changed the range to shadows and went over all of the letters and numbers. I chose this photo for space because you can see there is a lot of open empty space in the background, but also the proportions. You can clearly see the glove looks a lot bigger than the trees in the background and the fence looks a lot smaller compared to the glove. For these reasons I thought this photograph would show space.

Texture: before edits...



Texture: after edits

For this photograph I started by changing it from color to black and white. Next I cropped it to take out all the grass and distraction in the background. I wanted it to be more of a close up so you could really see every groove in the old glove. By cropping the photo it gave it a more unique angle and made it work better as a picture for texture. After all he cropping I continued in Lightroom and changed the exposposure to 1.20 so it wasn't so dark. I played with fill light  and decieded on 20 and upped the clarity to 100 so you could see every wrinkle in the glove. I decided that with a little grain at 11 it gave it a little bit more of a texturey feel. With the vignetting tool I changed it to -73 to change the corners just a little. In Photoshop I used the burn tool and a 58 size brush and a 20% exposure with the range set on shadows. I wanted to darken some of the white dots so they weren't the main focus but I thought keeping some would keep some of the texture feel. I thought that not only did the glove bring texture to this photo but the old and worn feeling on the ball gave the photograph a feel.



Line: before edits...

Line: after edits

For this picture I started out by changing it to black and white in Lightroom. Next I went into Photoshop and used the dodge tool to lighten some of the blades of grass so the sunlight looked even more dramatic. I used a 57 size brush, a 21% exposure, and the range was set to shadows.Thoroughout I kept the brush hardness at 0. I lightly went over the lighter blades of grass so they stood out even more and lighting was a bigger part of the photograph. Next I used the clone stamp to take out a glove that was in the background by accident. I a 64 brush and kept the opacity and flow at 100%. I used pixels from next to the ball and  above the bat. This gave a more simple background so the focus was still on the lines on the bat. I used the burn tool to slightly darken the dark wood marks in the bat so line was still the focus. The brush was size 48 and the exposure was at 20%. I changed the range setting to midtones and went over the lines to make them stand out. After this, I changed the range to shadows and went over the shadows made by the grass on the bat. I thought this photo worked for line because the bat itself creates a line and the grooves in the bat create a direction for your eyes. The grass shadows also create lines on the bat. For these reasons I chose this photograph for my line photo.

Christmas Lights