Lith and Lomograph

LITH PRINT

To create this edit I started out by transferring it from lightroom to photoshop. Next I created a duplicate layer wand went to image-adjustments-hue/saturation. I clicked the colorize box and  moved the hue slider to 40 and saturation to 30. I then made another duplicate layer, selected filter-noise-add noise. I selected the uniform box as well as monochramatic and set the amount to 30. To make the noise less harsh I changed the layer opacity to 20%. After this I applied the Gaussian Blur filter with a radius of 1.5 to make it even softer. Lastly to create a vignette I made a new layer, went up to edit-fill. Using the elliptical marquee tool I drew an oval in the center. Next I inverted by clicking inverse under select so the dark was around the oval. Lastly I added a layer mask, set layer blending to Soft Light and went around the photo with a brush.

LOMOGRAPH

To edit this picture first I moved it from Lr to Ps. Next I made a copy of the background layer and went to filter-blur-radial blur and set the amount to 15, method to zoom, and quality to best. Next I added a layer mask and used a size 130 bush to remove the blur from the center. I next made another layer and used a black brush to create a vignette. I lowered the opacity to 50%. After this, I went to layer-new adjustment layer-channel mixer. This then allowed me to adjust the red and green output channels color. Lastly to add noise I duplicated the background layer and went to filter-noise-add noise. I set the amount to 10 and set to uniform and monochomatic. I then repeated this on the layer with radial blur.

Exposure Technical Challenge

lightmeter 0

In this one the lightmeter was right in the middle. You get pretty even lighting but you cant see very much detail and it is bright.

lightmeter -1

In this photo the lightmeter was on the -1 mark. The difference in this photo is its not so blown out and bright and you are able to see more detail. The blues and greens became more deep and stand out.

lightmeter -2

 In this photo the lightmeter was two below. The difference it you are looking into the sun but you can barely see it. You can see a lot more detail than you could in either of the top too. It made the whites less harsh and the blues and greens a lot deeper.

ISO 100

This photo was taken with an ISO of 100 and the lightmeter on 0. The sun and the sky are bright but you can clearly see detail and color.

ISO 400

This one was taken with an ISO of 400 and the lightmeter on 0. In this one it is the perfect contrast of light and dark so that you see detail and bright colors. 

ISO 1600

 In this photo the ISO was at 1600 and the light meter on 0. you dont get as bright of colors but you can still see detail. The sun looks really bright and the whites are a little to white.

Glow Lights

    To create the glow lights I started by moving the photo from Lr to Ps. After that, I created a new layer by going under the layer tab and clicking layer then new. Next I switched the pen to free form pen and began experimenting with different designs. When I decided on one to do I started by drawing the yellow circles. I drew them with the pen, then went up to layer-- layer style--outer glow-- and decided on a yellow color. After, I held down the control key and clicked on the circle. This then brought up the option to create a stroke path. I clicked on it then went back up to layer style to decide on the size, opacity, and range. I continued these same steps after I drew the different lines around the circles, creating a new layer each time I did something new. Lastly I added the swirl around her arm and moved the picture back to Lr.